Luang Phabang - Luang Phabang, Lao Peoples Dem Rep

January 30th, 2008 · No Comments

Luang Phabang, Lao Peoples Dem Rep

Our final couple of days in Laos were spent in Luang Prabang, the largest city after Vientiane.  First impressions were OK; not what we expected from the guidebook, though.  We had a decent three days there but a few things annoyed us - lots of rich tourists seem to go there on package deals nowadays so the place is pricey.  On top of that, the local businesses have formed a cartel that prevents tourists doing anything on their own - it’s impossible to rent any kind of vehicle (even a bicycle) so if you want to get out of the city you have to either book through travel agents or hire a tuk-tuk.  Either way, the prices are well inflated because they know you’re pretty much stuck; this attitude seems to have infected everyone in the town to the extent that people are generally quite cold.  Em tried to swap her breakfast fruit salad for an orange juice and was met with a steely stare and a flat refusal (even though the menu gave the option).  Anyway, Em and I rebelled, resolving to do absolutely nothing except eat and drink…. not much change, there, eh?

Having said all that, the people in the shacks on the riverfront were all lovely - it was just the built-up area that was a tad cold-cash-crazy.  Our first night was fun - we found an outdoor place that was buzzing with local folk.  We sat down and only then noticed that the table had a big hole in the middle full of glowing, red-hot coals (we’d only just arrived so perception levels were admittedly very low).  The waiter pootled over and insisted we’d been there a couple of nights ago (I think we’ve mentioned before we appear to have a couple of doppelgangers who arrive at places mere days before we do - it happened all over South India) before informing us that he’d do a mix.  He re-appeared minutes later with a plate of meats (buffalo, pork and chicken with a hunk of pork fat), a full teapot and a big basket full of leaves and veggies.  He then plonked a big cooking plate on top of the coals - picture an inverted colander with an upturned circular jelly mould around the bottom.  The idea is that you pour the pork stock from the teapot into the reservoir round the bottom, lob the hunk of fat on the top of the cooking surface so it dribbles down then place the slices of meat on top of that to barbecue.  The greens and noodles are then dunked into the boiling stock, transferred to your bowl and topped with the now-cooked meat.  There was also a bowl full of chopped garlic, ginger, chilli and lemongrass to sprinkle over the lot.  It was delicious; as you’d imagine very fresh tasting and fun to boot.

Our second night we went for a wander down the river and found a shack selling “Cobra/Snake Wine for all travellers - 5000 kip per shot - very good for strength”.  We were both feeling a bit week so decided to give it a whirl.  A wizened old chap shuffled over to us, smiled a toothless grin and leeringly dipped a glass into a demijohn filled with a liquid the colour of dark apple juice (the tasteful comparison!) nestled in which were, apparently, a viper and a cobra - both dead (presumably from alcohol poison).  We had a couple of shots, being surprised at the taste.  Very nice, not overpoweringly alcoholic with a smoky, bitter taste.  Over these drinks we met a gentleman who introduced himself as Henri.  We ended up seeing him again later in the restaurant we’d chosen and he turned out to be a most interesting fellow.  With mine and Em’s pidgin French and his broken English we had a great chat over a couple of drinks.  Turns out he had been travelling for a while and had links to the Sri Lankan Royal Family, however had trouble crossing certain borders due to “visa problem”.

All in all, we did enjoy Laos - particularly Vientiane and the tubing day in Vang Vieng however found our final destination to be a bit galling (I forgot to say, in addition to the stuff I’ve mentioned already the government-sponsored Tourist Information even charges for a basic pamphlet map of the town!) but saved by the food and nice local folk on the river.  We were looking forward to leaving for Thailand and had opted for the speed boat followed by a mini-van to Chang Mai which would be a long journey (half eight in the morning set-off to arrive for about half eleven at night) but, we decided, preferable to the slow boat and local buses which would take two-and-a-bit days.  We were in for a surprise…..

Andy
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